Sealing the rear end. Believe it or not, under robust conditions, you don’t even have to close the ends – especially if you mount them with a slight stern downward tilt. The speed of the canoe keeps them almost empty and buoyant.

The most successful end treatment so far has been Styrofoam “corks,”  they are easy to make and do the job (a webbing handle allows for easy removal). Another fast approach is to get an empty plastic jar and turn it into a “cork”

Hatch covers also are a good solution, Fig6 but require more time and energy to fit and glue. Gluing to poly is not always successful, and may require a light torch flaming to properly prepare the poly for the glue/sealer. Under pressure, I need a hatch cover wrench to open them.

Under way, in moderate conditions, you can keep the outriggers out of the water entirely just by slight hiking to keep the canoe level. In heavy conditions, they penetrate the waves with a minimum of drag and you are glad they are there.

A webbing deck can be added to carry freight or small passengers.

The outriggers allow for swimming and easy reentry and extend the conditions in which you can sail safely.For teaching youngsters or the novice, the outriggers provide great first experiences.

Plenty of sail is possible, Fig 8 because you can hike way out on the cross bars.

One of the neat experiences the outriggers provide is (under proper conditions) to sail standing: one hand on the mast, one foot on the gunwhale.

I’ve always envied the kayak sailor’s ability to withstand butt fatigue, with the outriggers, we move about the canoe quite a bit.

You can also go forward past the mast (while underway) to the bow if necessary to adjust or reconfigure something.

Well worth the time and money, these outriggers can be taken for granted, abused and stored in the worst possible conditions. They enhance canoe sailing, and provide additional safety in deep water.

---