Some images of a rudder mount and a discussion on a becket
Ed Maurer, Dunedin, Florida

In Issue 2, I ran an article on my kickup rudder design and have since had requests to show the mounting system a little better and explain its use. I've also had a few discussions on replacing bronze hardware with contrivances worked into lines, so I'll cover both short topics here.

First, the kickup rudder I use is designed to be easily mounted to my E.M. White style canoe without having to drill holes that would otherwise weaken or put the boat at risk. There have been times I, as well as many of the readers, have struck underwater objects, run aground or been blown sideays onto a beach while landing in strong winds. Each time the rudder is impacted during one of these times, stress is transmitted to the hull. Now, if your rudder mount is attached directly to the stem through bolts or screws, that energy has an impact on the mounting point. While some boats can handle the stress, others, especially those not built with sailing in mind, can suffer hard to fix damage.

This is readily prevented by one of several methods:
A. Don't hit anything, ever.
B. Risk it and hope (pray) nothing happens.
C. Employ a removable mount.

The mount I use, because I'm not careful enough to employ Option A, and not willing to take too many risks or rely on faith, is C. As you can see in the photo, it is a very simple contrivance employing a narrow 'deck' that clamps to the gunnel, a verticle 'stern post' to which are mounted the gudgeons and diagonal braces on both sides tying the two together. The clamp at the forward end consists of a block, tapered to fit snugly beneath the gunnels, that secures the whole affair to the boat. The diagonals are fitted with small blocks that keep the rudder mount aligned. All contact points are padded.

On the occasions I've hit things, the mount has been kind enough to kickup to relieve or distribute the stress, thus preventing damage. In any event--the stem is never involved.