Provides great control while being able to run shallow
Ed Maurer, Dunedin, Florida
There's always a lot of discussion about what type of rudder, if any, to use in shoal-water boats. This is especially true of sailing canoes and any other boat that is shore- or beach-launched as a rule. In my Florida home waters, I have often run in less than six inches of water, and have occasionally run over sandbars that are barely awash. This calls for a rudder that gives good control, but also can get out of the way either manually or when striking objects or the bottom. Some sailors steer with a paddle, but many of us, especially those who have high-speed boats, or need to hike-out, require an actual rudder. Some boats employ fixed, vertical blades that provide very good control, but limit how shallow one can sail. While these blades provide the least amount of drag, they also act as fixed hull components and can break or cause damage to the boat should they hit something. A kickup rudder that is held in place by a fixed line or held down by ballast provides control and the assurance of operating somewhat safely at any depth. Whether it is a vertical blade, or something in more of a horizontal plane, the ability to rotate out of harm's way will benefit any sailor. An additional advantage is the blade can be retracted when the boat is beached without having to ship it. I prefer a somewhat crescent-shaped blade that will provide good control over all aspects of its depth as long as it's immersed. While in its full-down position, it gives the least amount of drag and requires less effort on the tiller. While in its “shoal” position, it provides maximum control, but adds more drag (hardly noticeable, but inevitable) and requires more effort at the tiller. In its full-up position, the rudder is completely safe from harm. The crescent shape also presents no flat surface to absorb energy when it strikes something; it more or less rolls over the object. It also doesn't gather seaweed, fishing line, potwarp, etc. The “cheeks” are made of ¾ inch plywood and the blade is ¾ inch red oak. The wood has been well varnished and shows no sign of water damage after years of salt water use. The leading edge of the blade is a ¾ x ¾ inch lead bar set into a cutout in the wood. This provides both ballast to keep the blade down, and protection against damage that could be caused by the canoe's (inevitably careless) skipper. The rudder is retracted by a line that passes through a fairlead and to hand; it can be tied or cleated in position. I prefer not to use a line that holds the rudder down because it's just another line to mess with, and I don't trust the quick-release all that much—one jam can cause damage. The photos are self-explanatory, but feel free to write should you have any questions. I also encourage others to share their own particular rudder rigs, too. |
