STEP. A block fastened to the upper side of keel- son, with a hole sunk in it for the reception of the mast to keep it in position.

MAST-TUBE. Usually of brass or copper, running from deck into the step and securely fastened at both ends, and plugged at the bottom to prevent the water coming on deck from getting into the hold. It also guides the mast into the step when putting the mast up. It should be made large enough to allow the mast to be easily removed, even if somewhat swelled after having been wet for a long period.

COAMING. A plank on edge fastened to side-frame of well and completely surrounding the well to prevent deck wash from coming inboard.

HATCH, A lid or covering for any part of the well or other opening in the deck, capable of easy removal, and resting on the coaming if over the well.

BEADING. A narrow strip of wood in the angle the coaming forms with the deck at point of junction, to prevent water entering. Also a narrow strip of wood run along the top streak at the gunwale, to protect its edge from wear.

BULKHEADS. Partitions dividing the hold into compartments. They may be permanent, in which case the planking of sides and deck are nailed to them and an attempt is made to render them water-tight; or they may be movable, and simply used as partitions.

APRON. A cloth covering for the well, to take the place of hatches or supplement their use.

BOTTOM or FLOOR BOARD. A board, or boards fastened together, laid on supports raised from keelson and bottom planks on which the crew and stores rest. It is a protection to the planking, and keeps crew and stores above any small amount of water that may be in the canoe's bottom.

SHOE. A metal band run along bottom of keel at either end or its whole length to save it from wear in putting the canoe up on land.

DEADRISE. The angle (if less than a right angle) made by the junction of planking with the keel. The section given on page 38 shows no deadrise. This canoe is said to have a flat floor - i.e., flat bottom.

BILGE. The curved part of the canoe's side formed in turning from the bottom to the straight side line.

TUMBLE-HOME. Where the sides of a canoe slope inward from its widest part to the deck at gunwale. Nautilus canoe section on page 26 shows a very decided tumble-home.

SHEER. The difference in height above the water line between the bow or stem and the gunwale amidship. In the sheer plan on page 26 the curve of the gunwale line upward from amidships to stem and stern posts shows the sheer.

CAMBRE. The arch of the deck. Sheer is the curve of the deck fore and aft; cambre, the curve of the deck athwartship.

BACK-BOARD. A board usually hung from a hatch or bulkhead directly behind the paddler, against which he rests his back.

BRACE. A cross bar of wood placed in a rack (to adjust to any length of leg) on the bottom board of a canoe against which the feet rest or brace themselves while their owner is paddling.

RIVETS. Usually of copper, used in fastening the parts of a canoe one to another. The rivet has a head on one end. The other end is run clear through a plank or timber and a burr (a flat rim) is pushed over it and the rivet end flattened, thus forming two heads to the rivet-one at each end - and effectually preventing its working out of its place. When nails are used to fasten parts together, their ends are clinched, turned over to prevent their getting out of place.

BEARINGS. A plank weighted to float on edge in the water has practically no bearings. The same plank floated naturally is practically all bearings. A sharp deadrise and slight curve to bilge give slight bearings. A flat floor and quick bilge curve give good bearings. Good bearings are needed to give stability under sail. Slight bearings render paddling easy.

DISPLACEMENT. The space occupied by the body of a canoe afloat below the water-line.

---